Photography |
ESSAYS/POETRY and PHOTOS
If you so feel, I would like to receive your essays, poems, stories and photos concerning any of the areas listed on this website, or related topics. I may include them under the appropriate areas, for others to read. Please keep them clean and on a positive note. Please include your phone number, home address, and email address ( I will not share your information with anyone, without your permission.) We reserve the right to refuse inappropriate content, writings or photos. However, if they are so funny or cool, we may change our minds.
PHOTO ADVISE
My goal here is to pass along 68+ years of camera knowledge and how to use them properly. Today’s cell phones and iPads are designed to make a touch of a button, a family masterpiece. But there are a few things you need to know.
Cell Phones & iPads
The obvious one, is to charge your batteries completely, and do not forget your charging cords. A portable remote recharging unit, can be used when power isn’t available.
Edit your images on your computer after you have downloaded them. Weed out the blurry, over or under exposed images, and trash them.
Keep your phone clean and your lens cleaner. As all digital cameras are concerned, dust and moisture is their/your enemy.
CAMERAS
Whether you use a PnS or a DSLR, dust is your biggest enemy. DO NOT change lenses in a dusty environment. Strive to keep your equipment as clean as possible.
When you get home or to your computer, download each day’s images and sort and store in appropriate files. Once they are safely stored on your computer, reinsert your card, and go into the menu on your camera and “Reformat” your card. This will erase all images from your card and give you full space for images.
SMART PHONES
Have you ever noticed that your images are always too bright, or washed out?
There is an easy fix to make your images more pleasing.
When you compose your image, touch your screen, and notice that it will get slightly darker.
If you want it even darker, touch your screen, and notice a colored square with a colored asterisk on the right.
Touch the asterisk and move it downward to your desired exposure. BUT do remember, that by doing this, your focus will be within the yellow square. So touch the screen at the point you want to focus on.
If you are shooting a pano or video, always start your composure from the top. Then touch your screen too darken it to your liking, and continue moving your phone down to the bottom. When you start your pano or video, move upward as apposed to downward
This will give you a screen that is more pleasing to the eye, and won't over expose the top part of the image.
Practice this method until you get the hang of it.
As in negatives from the old days, a thin negative or overexposed negative can not be manipulated with success.
By darkening your image before you take the picture, you can get better results from lightening a picture as you manipulate the image.
DELETING IMAGES
It is very important to not delete images off your card in your camera.
The deletions cause a void on your card. If you get low on space, another image might be a different size then the deleted image, and can cause your card to be corrupted. If this occurs, DO NOT USE IT. Take your card to a photo store like the Camera Corral, and have it cleaned off. They can save your images to a dvd if needed.
Smart phones are an exception, on them you can delete unwanted images.
WHITE BALANCE
No matter what camera you own, it is imperative to follow these instructions to the “T”.
If you go into any of the menu or other settings, to shoot a particular scene or circumstance, in a certain way, be sure to cancel those settings out BEFORE changing or shooting in a different circumstance.
For instance, if you set your camera’s White Balance (WB) for shooting indoors, and then go outside where the light is a different color temperature, your images will be incorrectly toned. Instead, go back into WB and reset for your new color temperatures. That’s why they put them in convenient places near your viewing screen.
ASA or ISO SETTINGS
In everyday circumstances, your ISO, or the sensitivity of your sensor to light, should stay low, or around ISO 100. If you shoot in lower light settings, you could increase your ISO to 200 or even 400 and above.
The higher the ISO is set, the grainier the image will appear. Settings over ISO 400, will cause more “noise” in your images. As in any camera settings, once you are done shooting in low light, for instance, change it back to a neutral setting for generic images.
EXPOSURE COMPENSATION
All digital cameras come from the days of the first digital video cameras. Back then, the video cameras used a sensor that was extremely sensitive.
In modern cameras, the sensor is still high, so our images tend to be over exposed. You can set your exposure compensation for outside daylight images to minus .3 to minus 1.3 to tone down your exposures.
But be aware....any time you set your camera's settings like this, you MUST cancel those settings back to your normal shooting mode.
If you make any adjustments to your cameras menu items for shooting outdoors, then you go inside, your settings will be incorrect for the indoor shots. Put your settings back to YOUR NORMAL.
LIGHT METERS
Your cameras light meter, evaluates the value of light sticking its surface. A light meter is made up of three parts. Each part effects the reading of the other two parts.
ISO or ASA is the sensitivity of your sensor to light
SHUTTER SPEED is the length of time your sensor is exposed to light.
APERTURE is the volume of light that enters the lens.
If one changes, the other two are effected.
ISO OR ASA
An ISO of 100 is to be used when there is adequate light, like sun light or flash. An ISO of 400 and above are used in low light circumstances. Or in sports photography when a fast shutter speed is needed to stop the action. The higher the ISO, the grainier you’re image will be.
SHUTTER SPEED
A shutter speed of 1/500th of a second can stop the action in your scene. To stop action in an image may require a much faster shutter speed.
APERTURE
An aperture of f-3.5 has very little depth of field, where an aperture of F-22 has a deeper depth of field.
If you want to isolate your subject’s sharp focus, use a large aperture.
if you want all aspects of your image to be sharp, like in landscapes, use a smaller aperture like F-22.
But be aware, a smaller aperture causes your shutter speed to be significantly slower.
Shooting Methods when using a DSLR
ISO
Shoot as low of an ISO as possible. Use higher ISO’s for low light, or action conditions.
M, S, A, P. (m= manual, s= shutter preferred, a= aperture preferred, and p= programed.
P.
For the average shooter, P or Program will do everything you want, up to a point. On P you can actually change your shutter speeds or apertures, by using your command dial.
Never use the “green camera” setting. It is for those who can’t or won’t learn their camera. Avoid at all costs.
S
If you are shooting sports or action images, the S setting, or Shutter Preferred setting, allows you to choose a high shutter speed to stop the action. Be sure to check your aperture settings, in the viewfinder, so that you know where your depth of field will be.
Depth of field is defined as the area in your image that s in focus and sharp. DOF is achieved by reducing your aperture to a smaller opening.
An aperture of f-3.5 is shallow, while an aperture of f-22, allows for depth in your focal distance. Be aware, an aperture of f-22 causes a very slow shutter speed. Any shutter speed slower then 1/100th of a second may have movement in your image.
A
For those wanting a lot of depth of field, shoot in the A or Aperture Preferred setting. This will allow you to reduce your aperture settings to f-11 or smaller. Be sure to check your shutter speeds before you shoot. If they are too low, camera shake will be evident.
M
For the purest, use your M or Manuel setting. On M, you get to set your aperture and shutter speed manually. By using your cameras light meter, you can achieve depth of field, or slow shutter speeds. Remember, ISO’s have a lot to do with the quality of your images.
As in all digital cameras, you must reset your specialized setting back to neutral before shooting under different lighting.
SOME MORE OF MY 84+ ESSENTIALS
TRIPOD
A Tripod is without a doubt the most valuable of all of your photographic accessory.
By using a tripod you can shoot at very slow shutter speeds, or a small aperture to achieve many different effects.
When shooting waterfalls, creeks or in low light circumstances, a tripod will allow you to use slow shutter speeds and/or small apertures to achieve a veiled waterfall effect. Night star images can only be done with a tripod, or a way to steady the camera.
CABLE RELEASE
A cable release will allow you to release the shutter without camera shake. This is very important in waterfall shooting as well as night or star photography. If you don’t have a cable release, you can access your cameras settings to delay the release of your shutter.
LENSES
A variety of lenses will allow you to choose a lens, to take in all you want in your images. Usually, a photographer will have a Super Wide Angle lens, a medium telephoto lens, and a long telephoto lens. They choose the lens they need to use, do to the circumstances they are in.
ZOOM LENSES
Zoom lenses have come a LONG way since we were kids. In the past, zooms did little to get you a descent image. But that no longer is as important as in the past. Choose your lenses carefully. They are what make an image great. Your camera body is just a fancy light tight timing devise, with lots of features.
CHOOSING LENSES
Choosing Lenses is a very important part of your photography. The lenses that come on your cameras are poor at best. If you are SERIOUS about your photography, spend the dollars to buy lenses that will get you the results you desire. In Nikon lenses, they are called E.D. Or Extra Low Dispersion Glass. In a Canon system, they are called L Series lenses. They all are expensive, but if you are serious, spend the dollars to get the images you want.
And be sure to not zoom your lens in dusty or dirty circumstances. As you zoom in or out, a vacuum occurs inside your lens, and can pull in dust or dirt.
Most landscape photographers use the following filters.
POLARIZERS
A linear or circular polarizer will make your images pop. But don’t choose a cheap one. I would suggest a B+W polarizing filter.
Drop by the Camera Corral in CDA for all your camera needs and help.
WARMING FILTERS
A Warming filter will warm your images up from often cool images.
They are usually a light tan color.
GRADUATED NEUTRAL DENSITY FILTER
A Graduated Neutral Density filter will allow you to either reduce or increase a portion of your image brightness, to match the other half of your exposure.
UV OR SKYLIGHT FILTERS
A UV or Skylight filter will protect your front element of your lens from being scratched or getting dirty. They are WAY more inexpensive then replacing your front element.
MEDIA CARDS
All digital cameras use a media card to store your images. Buy a good brand, like Delkin. Do not scrimp. Remember to download your images, and reformat your card as needed. If you accidentally reformat your card, DO NOT shoot more any image on that card. Pull the card and take it to the Camera Corral to recover all your images. Then reformat and use as normal. A corrupted card will disable your card.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN YOUR SENSOR
You camera’s sensor is where your images are recorded. The cover over your sensor is specifically designed to make 100% sure the sensor stays clean, and NEVER gets touched. This cover is very fragile and can be damaged if you try to clean it yourself. But most damage to cleaning your sensor, comes from your camera’s shutter closing while you are in cleaning it. Now the expensive repair becomes very expensive. Thats why I say to never change lenses in a dusty or dirty environment. Also, make sure your camera bag is spotless.
If you so feel, I would like to receive your essays, poems, stories and photos concerning any of the areas listed on this website, or related topics. I may include them under the appropriate areas, for others to read. Please keep them clean and on a positive note. Please include your phone number, home address, and email address ( I will not share your information with anyone, without your permission.) We reserve the right to refuse inappropriate content, writings or photos. However, if they are so funny or cool, we may change our minds.
PHOTO ADVISE
My goal here is to pass along 68+ years of camera knowledge and how to use them properly. Today’s cell phones and iPads are designed to make a touch of a button, a family masterpiece. But there are a few things you need to know.
Cell Phones & iPads
The obvious one, is to charge your batteries completely, and do not forget your charging cords. A portable remote recharging unit, can be used when power isn’t available.
Edit your images on your computer after you have downloaded them. Weed out the blurry, over or under exposed images, and trash them.
Keep your phone clean and your lens cleaner. As all digital cameras are concerned, dust and moisture is their/your enemy.
CAMERAS
Whether you use a PnS or a DSLR, dust is your biggest enemy. DO NOT change lenses in a dusty environment. Strive to keep your equipment as clean as possible.
When you get home or to your computer, download each day’s images and sort and store in appropriate files. Once they are safely stored on your computer, reinsert your card, and go into the menu on your camera and “Reformat” your card. This will erase all images from your card and give you full space for images.
SMART PHONES
Have you ever noticed that your images are always too bright, or washed out?
There is an easy fix to make your images more pleasing.
When you compose your image, touch your screen, and notice that it will get slightly darker.
If you want it even darker, touch your screen, and notice a colored square with a colored asterisk on the right.
Touch the asterisk and move it downward to your desired exposure. BUT do remember, that by doing this, your focus will be within the yellow square. So touch the screen at the point you want to focus on.
If you are shooting a pano or video, always start your composure from the top. Then touch your screen too darken it to your liking, and continue moving your phone down to the bottom. When you start your pano or video, move upward as apposed to downward
This will give you a screen that is more pleasing to the eye, and won't over expose the top part of the image.
Practice this method until you get the hang of it.
As in negatives from the old days, a thin negative or overexposed negative can not be manipulated with success.
By darkening your image before you take the picture, you can get better results from lightening a picture as you manipulate the image.
DELETING IMAGES
It is very important to not delete images off your card in your camera.
The deletions cause a void on your card. If you get low on space, another image might be a different size then the deleted image, and can cause your card to be corrupted. If this occurs, DO NOT USE IT. Take your card to a photo store like the Camera Corral, and have it cleaned off. They can save your images to a dvd if needed.
Smart phones are an exception, on them you can delete unwanted images.
WHITE BALANCE
No matter what camera you own, it is imperative to follow these instructions to the “T”.
If you go into any of the menu or other settings, to shoot a particular scene or circumstance, in a certain way, be sure to cancel those settings out BEFORE changing or shooting in a different circumstance.
For instance, if you set your camera’s White Balance (WB) for shooting indoors, and then go outside where the light is a different color temperature, your images will be incorrectly toned. Instead, go back into WB and reset for your new color temperatures. That’s why they put them in convenient places near your viewing screen.
ASA or ISO SETTINGS
In everyday circumstances, your ISO, or the sensitivity of your sensor to light, should stay low, or around ISO 100. If you shoot in lower light settings, you could increase your ISO to 200 or even 400 and above.
The higher the ISO is set, the grainier the image will appear. Settings over ISO 400, will cause more “noise” in your images. As in any camera settings, once you are done shooting in low light, for instance, change it back to a neutral setting for generic images.
EXPOSURE COMPENSATION
All digital cameras come from the days of the first digital video cameras. Back then, the video cameras used a sensor that was extremely sensitive.
In modern cameras, the sensor is still high, so our images tend to be over exposed. You can set your exposure compensation for outside daylight images to minus .3 to minus 1.3 to tone down your exposures.
But be aware....any time you set your camera's settings like this, you MUST cancel those settings back to your normal shooting mode.
If you make any adjustments to your cameras menu items for shooting outdoors, then you go inside, your settings will be incorrect for the indoor shots. Put your settings back to YOUR NORMAL.
LIGHT METERS
Your cameras light meter, evaluates the value of light sticking its surface. A light meter is made up of three parts. Each part effects the reading of the other two parts.
ISO or ASA is the sensitivity of your sensor to light
SHUTTER SPEED is the length of time your sensor is exposed to light.
APERTURE is the volume of light that enters the lens.
If one changes, the other two are effected.
ISO OR ASA
An ISO of 100 is to be used when there is adequate light, like sun light or flash. An ISO of 400 and above are used in low light circumstances. Or in sports photography when a fast shutter speed is needed to stop the action. The higher the ISO, the grainier you’re image will be.
SHUTTER SPEED
A shutter speed of 1/500th of a second can stop the action in your scene. To stop action in an image may require a much faster shutter speed.
APERTURE
An aperture of f-3.5 has very little depth of field, where an aperture of F-22 has a deeper depth of field.
If you want to isolate your subject’s sharp focus, use a large aperture.
if you want all aspects of your image to be sharp, like in landscapes, use a smaller aperture like F-22.
But be aware, a smaller aperture causes your shutter speed to be significantly slower.
Shooting Methods when using a DSLR
ISO
Shoot as low of an ISO as possible. Use higher ISO’s for low light, or action conditions.
M, S, A, P. (m= manual, s= shutter preferred, a= aperture preferred, and p= programed.
P.
For the average shooter, P or Program will do everything you want, up to a point. On P you can actually change your shutter speeds or apertures, by using your command dial.
Never use the “green camera” setting. It is for those who can’t or won’t learn their camera. Avoid at all costs.
S
If you are shooting sports or action images, the S setting, or Shutter Preferred setting, allows you to choose a high shutter speed to stop the action. Be sure to check your aperture settings, in the viewfinder, so that you know where your depth of field will be.
Depth of field is defined as the area in your image that s in focus and sharp. DOF is achieved by reducing your aperture to a smaller opening.
An aperture of f-3.5 is shallow, while an aperture of f-22, allows for depth in your focal distance. Be aware, an aperture of f-22 causes a very slow shutter speed. Any shutter speed slower then 1/100th of a second may have movement in your image.
A
For those wanting a lot of depth of field, shoot in the A or Aperture Preferred setting. This will allow you to reduce your aperture settings to f-11 or smaller. Be sure to check your shutter speeds before you shoot. If they are too low, camera shake will be evident.
M
For the purest, use your M or Manuel setting. On M, you get to set your aperture and shutter speed manually. By using your cameras light meter, you can achieve depth of field, or slow shutter speeds. Remember, ISO’s have a lot to do with the quality of your images.
As in all digital cameras, you must reset your specialized setting back to neutral before shooting under different lighting.
SOME MORE OF MY 84+ ESSENTIALS
TRIPOD
A Tripod is without a doubt the most valuable of all of your photographic accessory.
By using a tripod you can shoot at very slow shutter speeds, or a small aperture to achieve many different effects.
When shooting waterfalls, creeks or in low light circumstances, a tripod will allow you to use slow shutter speeds and/or small apertures to achieve a veiled waterfall effect. Night star images can only be done with a tripod, or a way to steady the camera.
CABLE RELEASE
A cable release will allow you to release the shutter without camera shake. This is very important in waterfall shooting as well as night or star photography. If you don’t have a cable release, you can access your cameras settings to delay the release of your shutter.
LENSES
A variety of lenses will allow you to choose a lens, to take in all you want in your images. Usually, a photographer will have a Super Wide Angle lens, a medium telephoto lens, and a long telephoto lens. They choose the lens they need to use, do to the circumstances they are in.
ZOOM LENSES
Zoom lenses have come a LONG way since we were kids. In the past, zooms did little to get you a descent image. But that no longer is as important as in the past. Choose your lenses carefully. They are what make an image great. Your camera body is just a fancy light tight timing devise, with lots of features.
CHOOSING LENSES
Choosing Lenses is a very important part of your photography. The lenses that come on your cameras are poor at best. If you are SERIOUS about your photography, spend the dollars to buy lenses that will get you the results you desire. In Nikon lenses, they are called E.D. Or Extra Low Dispersion Glass. In a Canon system, they are called L Series lenses. They all are expensive, but if you are serious, spend the dollars to get the images you want.
And be sure to not zoom your lens in dusty or dirty circumstances. As you zoom in or out, a vacuum occurs inside your lens, and can pull in dust or dirt.
Most landscape photographers use the following filters.
POLARIZERS
A linear or circular polarizer will make your images pop. But don’t choose a cheap one. I would suggest a B+W polarizing filter.
Drop by the Camera Corral in CDA for all your camera needs and help.
WARMING FILTERS
A Warming filter will warm your images up from often cool images.
They are usually a light tan color.
GRADUATED NEUTRAL DENSITY FILTER
A Graduated Neutral Density filter will allow you to either reduce or increase a portion of your image brightness, to match the other half of your exposure.
UV OR SKYLIGHT FILTERS
A UV or Skylight filter will protect your front element of your lens from being scratched or getting dirty. They are WAY more inexpensive then replacing your front element.
MEDIA CARDS
All digital cameras use a media card to store your images. Buy a good brand, like Delkin. Do not scrimp. Remember to download your images, and reformat your card as needed. If you accidentally reformat your card, DO NOT shoot more any image on that card. Pull the card and take it to the Camera Corral to recover all your images. Then reformat and use as normal. A corrupted card will disable your card.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN YOUR SENSOR
You camera’s sensor is where your images are recorded. The cover over your sensor is specifically designed to make 100% sure the sensor stays clean, and NEVER gets touched. This cover is very fragile and can be damaged if you try to clean it yourself. But most damage to cleaning your sensor, comes from your camera’s shutter closing while you are in cleaning it. Now the expensive repair becomes very expensive. Thats why I say to never change lenses in a dusty or dirty environment. Also, make sure your camera bag is spotless.
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