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THE AMERICAN SELKIRKS

THE ABOVE IMAGE WAS TAKEN FROM THE SELKIRK CREST
​ABOVE LITTLE HARRISON LAKE & BEEHIVE LAKE

BEEHIVE DOME, UPPER PACK RVER

Sometimes rocks weather by peeling off in sheets rather than eroding grain by grain. This process is called exfoliation.
Exfoliation can occur in thin layers on individual boulders, or it can take place in thick slabs as it does here, at Enchanted Rock in Texas.
The great white granite domes and cliffs of the High Sierra, like Half Dome, owe their appearance to exfoliation. These rocks were emplaced as molten bodies, or plutons, deep underground, raising the Sierra Nevada range.
The usual explanation is that erosion then unroofed the plutons and took away the pressure of the overlying rock. As a result, the solid rock acquired fine cracks through pressure-release jointing.
Mechanical weathering opened up the joints further and loosened these slabs. New theories about this process have been suggested, but are not yet widely accepted.
Picture

FOR MORE INTERESTING READING, LOG ONTO LAURA'S WEBSITE
https://www.naturallynorthidaho.com/2012/12/mountains-moved-to-form-purcell-trench.htm

Picture
Myrtle’s Turtle is a huge dome of exposed granitic rock.
Lets discuss the formation of granitic rocks. Going deep beneath the surface reveals the variations of the granitic rocks in the Selkirk Mountains. Igneous rock forms by the crystallization of molten rock. If the molten rock is below the Earth’s surface it is called magma and if it reaches the surface it is called lava. Igneous rock forms from the crystallization or “freezing” of magma. As hard as it is to imagine, hot magma freezing it does but at temperatures way hotter than water. Magma typically freezes at temperatures ranging from 650 C to 1,100 C (1,202 F to 2,012 F).
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Slow cooling created the large crystals
The variation in crystallization temperatures results from the minerals present. Magma infused with silica-rich minerals (like quartz) crystallizes at lower temperatures whereas mafic-rich minerals (like hornblende) crystallize at higher temperatures.

In the case of the Selkirk Mountains, the exposed rock is part of a pluton. Plutons are blob-like intrusions of magma that cooled underground in sizes upwards of tens of kilometers.

Not all magma within a pluton is of the same composition. As the magma moves upward it melts surrounding rock which can vary in composition along the way. This disparity in composition contributes to the variations seen across the Selkirk Mountains.

As a body of magma cools, not all areas cool at the same rate. The differences in cooling results in different crystal sizes. When the magma cools slowly, the minerals have a chance to form large crystals. If the magma cools quickly, the minerals don’t have a chance to grow big before all the space is filled.
Granite and granodiorite are both coarse-grained rocks which indicates the body of magma cooled slowly.

Some rocks have mineral grains that are two sizes, usually large crystals within a matrix of smaller crystals. These rocks are called porphyritic and are a result of the magma cooling in two stages. The large mineral grains, called phenocrysts, crystallized first while the magma cooled very slowly allowing for sizable growth. Then the magma, for one reason or another, cooled more quickly and the remaining minerals crystallized. Phenocrysts are commonly plagioclase (a mineral) because it is one of the first minerals to crystallize.

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A porphyritic rock
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A possible xenolith because the dark rock is unlike anything surrounding it.
On a larger scale are chunks of rock that don’t match the surrounding rock at all, like the really dark-colored rock I found along the Hidden Lake trail. One possibility for these “odd” rocks is they are xenoliths. Xenoliths are rock fragments that are foreign to the body of igneous rock in which they occur. They may have fallen from the edge of the magma chamber and didn’t melt completely before the magma solidified.

Another possibility is that it is part of a vein that cut through the igneous rock after it solidified. Fractures, sometimes from fault movement, fill with magma of varying compositions, cool and crystallize into veins. Sometimes the veins are mainly quartz.

The possibilities are really quite numerous on how igneous rocks form and I’ve only covered a few. Finding the different types of granite, granodiorite, mineral veins and xenoliths throughout the Selkirk Mountains is like a scavenger hunt without a list because you never know what variation you’re going to stumble upon next.


The Kootenai Valley and the Selkirk, Purcell and Cabinet Mountains are the main geographic features in the county. One geologic feature is responsible for how we see them today–the Purcell Trench.
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From atop Clifty Mountain (in the Cabinets), the Purcell Trench is visible into Canada.
The Purcell Trench is the valley structure between the Selkirk Mountains and the Cabinet and Purcell Mountains. The Purcell Trench extends beyond Boundary County. The southern edge is in Rathdrum Prairie, though it is harder to distinguish south of Sandpoint. The Purcell Trench also extends north into British Columbia where it eventually merges with the Rocky Mountain Trench.

Valleys can be made by erosion (water or glaciers) or by an underlying geologic structure. The Purcell Trench is too long, wide and straight to have been formed by erosion and, therefore, it is a result of a major bedrock structure.

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Purcell Trench south as viewed from Tungsten Mountain in the Purcells
One bedrock structure responsible for creating valleys is a fault. The basin and range mountains in Nevada formed because of faulting. A fault is a fracture in rock where sliding occurs (both sides don’t have to move, often it is one piece moving against the other stationary side). The San Andreas fault in California is one example.

There has to be a reason for rock to move and in the case of the Purcell Trench  it was because this area was being stretched. As one can imagine, rock isn’t a likely candidate for stretching, so what happens is faulting. Faulting releases the tension built up by stretching.
Picture
Exposed granite in the Selkirks cooled several miles below the earth’s surface
What caused the stretching? Intruding magma. Long before the ice ages, a large mass of granitic magma was rising in the Earth’s crust under the present day Selkirk Mountains. As the giant bubble of magma neared the surface, it weakened the crust by stretching it. The giant bubble of granitic magma cooled before it reached the surface, creating a giant granite batholith. But the tension was still there from the stretching. Consider that the granite cooled miles below the surface and now is exposed in the Selkirk Mountains. Something had to move to make the granite visible, it wasn’t eroded away.

Quite a bit of imagination is necessary to envision what happened. The rock that is now the Cabinet and Purcell Mountains was once on top of where the Selkirk Mountains are located. When the magma intruded, it bulged up the overlying rock, much like a bubble forming in pizza crust. To release the tension, a fault formed along the current eastern front of the Selkirk Mountains. Over millions of years the rock on top (the current Purcell and Cabinet Mountains) slowly slid down the fault in an easterly direction into their current position, leaving an open trench behind. That open trench is now called the Purcell Trench.

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Looking east across the Purcell Trench at the Purcell Mountains
As the overlying rock slide eastwards, the granite batholith was exposed.

The rocks around the fault zone are under tremendous pressure as the faulting occurs, which results in folding and metamorphosing the rocks. Rocks along the eastern front of the Selkirk Mountains may have a shiny look to them, with all the crystals aligned in one direction–these rocks were altered by the heat and pressure in the fault zone.


Have you taken a close look at the rock cut where the Myrtle Creek Road takes off from the West Side Road? This rock was folded deep in the crust along the fault zone as the Purcell Trench was being formed.

The Purcell Trench doesn’t look the same today as it did after it was initially created. Glaciers, lakes and rivers have scoured, eroded and deposited sediment to create the valley we know today as the Kootenai Valley.

In 1987, the Idaho Panhandle National Forest designated the Selkirk Crest to be a 26,700 acre wilderness study area. They never moved forward with idea of creating the Selkirk Crest into a wilderness.

Below are many of the favorite hikes and scrambles in the American Selkirks.

One thing you will notice while exploring the Selkirks, is the quality of the granite. There are few places in our region that you can walk up a 45°+ slope and not be nervous. But because of the events described above, we can enjoy the Selkirk Granite on these hikes.

When you see “ Peak 6514’” or other numbers, it means the peak is not named, and is designated by it’s elevation number.


Greology of N. Idaho & W. Montana by Charles Mortensen
Geology: The Selkirks are the backbone of the Priest River uplift, that exposed Cretaceous granitic rocks of the Kaniksu batholith, that intrude Mesoproterozoic Belt Supergroup, and overlying Neoproterozoic Deer Trail and Windermere groups and Cambrian rocks. A small Jurassic or Cretaceous granodiorite intrudes the Deer Trail Group in the northwestern part of the range. This intrusion is associated with accretion of rocks in inland northwest known as the Kootenay Arc, a possible island-arc terrane.
The process that resulted in this current situation started about 250 million years ago as the North American Plate collided with the plate under the Pacific Ocean. About 160 million years ago the belt of sedimentary rocks of the Kootenay Arc jammed against the American Plate. The moving ocean floor swept sediments into the descending trench that formed at the point of contact between the plates. These materials were heated up and recrystalized to form schist and gneiss or melted to form granite. Thus the new generation of basement rocks that formed under the arc is a complex of granite and metamorphic rocks.
The collision between the two plates pushed up a broad welt of sheared rocks on the surface during mid-Jurassic time and continued into the late Cretaceous until about 100 million years ago. These rocks formed the first stage of the northern Rocky Mountains and probably reached a height of approximately 20,000 feet. This area against the ocean probably closely resembled the modern Andes Mountains of South America.
About 65 million years ago enormous volumes of the molten granite formed huge batholiths under the Coast Mountains and Idaho. This molten material rose into the early mountains making them mechanically weak. They sheared off into great slabs and were moved into western Montana to form parts of the modern Northern Rockies. An area of granite or metamorphic rock that rises to the surface from deep in the crust to displace the rocks that covered them is called a Core Complex. The Priest River Complex composed of Kaniksu Batholith granite forms the base of the modern Idaho portion of the Selkirk Mountains. Some small areas of older sedimentary rock remain scattered through the largely granitic mountains.
During the Ice Age, the Cordilleran ice sheet descended from Canada covering much of the northern United States. During maximum glaciation, the ice was thick enough to pass over all but the highest peaks of the Selkirk Mountains. The ice in the vicinity of Sandpoint near the southern end of the range was more than 4,500 feet thick. The mountains of the region were encased in ice and would have been fully involved in glacial processes. Every valley and mountain slope contributed to the massive ice tongue that filled the broad Purcell Trench to the east. About 20,000 years ago the last great ice sheet retreated from the U. S., but lingered nearby in Canada until about 6,000 years ago when it finally melted. During the later stages it went through a succession of retreats and minor advances. During this time there were periods of alpine glaciation in the mountains. Evidence of this activity is abundant in the high mountains today.
The Selkirk Mountains provide the premier glacially carved landscape in Idaho. Glacial cirques, a steep-sided, rounded, bowl-shaped feature carved into a mountain at the head of a glacial valley dot the range. In the cirque, snow accumulates and eventually converts to glacier ice before heading down the glacial valley. A horn is the sharp peak that remains after cirques have cut back into a mountain on several sides. Sharp ridges called arêtes separate adjacent glacially-carved valleys. The ice travels down the valley, scraping the walls and converting the bottoms into broad U-shapes. As the ice melts the landscape exposed is one of straightened, parallel valleys with hanging tributary basins headed by bedrock lakes collected in the hollow of the cirques. These glacial features are abundantly represented in the modern Selkirk Mountains.
In the Priest River valley a recent glacier (7,000 to 25,000 years ago) scooped out more of the valley floor and pushed soil, gravel and boulders down the valley to what is now the south edge of Priest Lake. As the climate warmed and the glacier started to melt, gravel and boulders formed a natural dam that impounded the melt-water in the scooped-out area behind it. Over time the ice disappeared. Today, the pristine water of Priest Lake is a mute reminder of the mighty forces that created it
Geology: The Selkirks are the backbone of the Priest River uplift, that exposed Cretaceous granitic rocks of the Kaniksu batholith, that intrude Mesoproterozoic Belt Supergroup, and overlying Neoproterozoic Deer Trail and Windermere groups and Cambrian rocks. A small Jurassic or Cretaceous granodiorite intrudes the Deer Trail Group in the northwestern part of the range. This intrusion is associated with accretion of rocks in inland northwest known as the Kootenay Arc, a possible island-arc terrane.
The process that resulted in this current situation started about 250 million years ago as the North American Plate collided with the plate under the Pacific Ocean. About 160 million years ago the belt of sedimentary rocks of the Kootenay Arc jammed against the American Plate. The moving ocean floor swept sediments into the descending trench that formed at the point of contact between the plates. These materials were heated up and recrystalized to form schist and gneiss or melted to form granite. Thus the new generation of basement rocks that formed under the arc is a complex of granite and metamorphic rocks.
The collision between the two plates pushed up a broad welt of sheared rocks on the surface during mid-Jurassic time and continued into the late Cretaceous until about 100 million years ago. These rocks formed the first stage of the northern Rocky Mountains and probably reached a height of approximately 20,000 feet. This area against the ocean probably closely resembled the modern Andes Mountains of South America.
About 65 million years ago enormous volumes of the molten granite formed huge batholiths under the Coast Mountains and Idaho. This molten material rose into the early mountains making them mechanically weak. They sheared off into great slabs and were moved into western Montana to form parts of the modern Northern Rockies. An area of granite or metamorphic rock that rises to the surface from deep in the crust to displace the rocks that covered them is called a Core Complex. The Priest River Complex composed of Kaniksu Batholith granite forms the base of the modern Idaho portion of the Selkirk Mountains. Some small areas of older sedimentary rock remain scattered through the largely granitic mountains.
During the Ice Age, the Cordilleran ice sheet descended from Canada covering much of the northern United States. During maximum glaciation, the ice was thick enough to pass over all but the highest peaks of the Selkirk Mountains. The ice in the vicinity of Sandpoint near the southern end of the range was more than 4,500 feet thick. The mountains of the region were encased in ice and would have been fully involved in glacial processes. Every valley and mountain slope contributed to the massive ice tongue that filled the broad Purcell Trench to the east. About 20,000 years ago the last great ice sheet retreated from the U. S., but lingered nearby in Canada until about 6,000 years ago when it finally melted. During the later stages it went through a succession of retreats and minor advances. During this time there were periods of alpine glaciation in the mountains. Evidence of this activity is abundant in the high mountains today.
The Selkirk Mountains provide the premier glacially carved landscape in Idaho. Glacial cirques, a steep-sided, rounded, bowl-shaped feature carved into a mountain at the head of a glacial valley dot the range. In the cirque, snow accumulates and eventually converts to glacier ice before heading down the glacial valley. A horn is the sharp peak that remains after cirques have cut back into a mountain on several sides. Sharp ridges called arêtes separate adjacent glacially-carved valleys. The ice travels down the valley, scraping the walls and converting the bottoms into broad U-shapes. As the ice melts the landscape exposed is one of straightened, parallel valleys with hanging tributary basins headed by bedrock lakes collected in the hollow of the cirques. These glacial features are abundantly represented in the modern Selkirk Mountains.
In the Priest River valley a recent glacier (7,000 to 25,000 years ago) scooped out more of the valley floor and pushed soil, gravel and boulders down the valley to what is now the south edge of Priest Lake. As the climate warmed and the glacier started to melt, gravel and boulders formed a natural dam that impounded the melt-water in the scooped-out area behind it. Over time the ice disappeared. Today, the pristine water of Priest Lake is a mute reminder of the mighty forces that created it

Links to Route Descriptions

TWO MOUTH LAKES 5785' TRAIL #286 KENT LAKE RIDGE 7243'
​HUNT LAKE 5813' GUNSIGHT PEAK 7352'
FAULT LAKE 5980' & HUNT PEAK 7058' TRAIL # 59
BURTON PEAK 6844' TRAIL #9
COOKS LAKE & PEAK 5993' TRAIL #236
​ HARRISON LAKE & PEAK 7292' TRAIL # 217
​​LITTLE HARRISON LAKE 6271' & PEAK 7292'
​BEEHIVE LAKE 6457'
PARKER PEAK 7670'
RUSSELL PEAK TRAIL #12 6618' & RUSSELL RIDGE #92​
IRON MOUNTAIN 6426' Trails #180 & 176
LONG CANYON TRAIL #16
LONG MOUNTAIN 7265' AND LAKE
​MYRTLE LAKE 5950' & MYRTLE PEAK 7122' TRAIL #286
​PYRAMID PEAK 7355' TRAIL #13
PYRAMID AND BALL LAKES TRAIL #43
RED TOP MOUNTAIN 6266' TRAIL #102
MOUNT ROOTHAAN 7326' AND CHIMNEY ROCK 7124' TRAIL #256
ROMAN NOSE LAKES & PEAK 7260' TRAILS # 165 & 160


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